The indigenous grape varieties of Southern Italy have always fascinated me. Taking part in Radici del Sud, the event organized by Nicola Campanile and dedicated to the native grapes of the South, felt like being invited into the best “playroom” I could possibly imagine.
I’ve tasted many Aglianico, Primitivo, and Nerello Mascalese, but putting nose and palate to grapes such as Sciascinoso, Casavecchia, Aniga Braxia, or Muristellu filled me with great enthusiasm and curiosity.
It’s a pity that this particular tasting session was reserved for a small group of journalists. I would have loved to see the same excitement on the faces of some foreign journalists or buyers, but this year we must be patient and wait for the return of the original Radici del Sud format scheduled for the next edition in June.
Beyond the unfamiliar varieties, having access to large tasting flights of Aglianico, Primitivo, Nero di Troia, and Cannonau was truly fascinating. When I first started participating in tastings like this, I used to wonder how it was possible to still understand anything after the fiftieth wine. In reality, with a bit more experience, I’ve realized that it’s precisely after the fiftieth wine that you begin to appreciate the nuances, the styles, and to recognize both the (few) flaws and the virtues of the same grape variety.
It was also interesting to have an oenologist at the table, able to offer a different perspective—perhaps explaining how a territory has evolved over time, or discussing the ability of a tannin to evolve or not. I also enjoyed my jury table, a mix of professionalism but above all of discussion and sharing, especially the shared passion for what one of my teachers (it’s easy to guess who) likes to call “the fragrant liquid.”
In total we tasted around 130 wines. Few faults, many surprises, and some beautiful—indeed very beautiful—confirmations.
Of course, the tasting was conducted blind, meaning the bottles were properly covered. This is inevitable in a competition setting, but I now consider it indispensable: it fuels that sense of analysis and discovery that makes wine even more intriguing than it already is when the bottle is visible.
Each category has its ranking and its winner, but I’d like to take the liberty of creating my own personal category, sharing—without anyone taking offense—my personal favorites.
First and foremost, Sardinia. Not out of courtesy toward anyone, but because this year more than ever I encountered truly surprising wines from the island.
Looking more closely at some of the wines:
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Antiogu Fradiles Mandrolisai DOC Superiore 2016 – an expression of a style that once again leaves me speechless. Or rather, leaves my mouth closed—so as not to lose even a single sip or molecule. A territory I now feel compelled to visit soon.
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Menhir Salento Pietra Susumaniello 2019 – for its fruit, the richness of its bouquet, and its ability to surprise with an immediacy I did not expect.
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Casa Comerci “A Batia” 2017 – 100% Magliocco, a direct wine with great character, vigorous yet elegant.
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Benanti Nerello Cappuccio Terre Siciliane Rosso 2018 – although I have a particular fondness for Nerello Mascalese, it was a pleasure to see Nerello Cappuccio playing such a strong leading role in this wine.
I return home with a beautiful experience, one that adds something new to my cultural baggage. Not just wine, but wine culture as an expression of territories and people who work with passion.
Another wonderful journey to the South, yet again a very positive one.
See you at the next edition of Radici del Sud, always in Sannicandro di Bari, from June 9 to 14, 2021
