More than twenty years on the lees, just 250 bottles remaining and a vintage that has become a benchmark over time. Castello Bonomi unveils Lucrezia Etichetta Nera 2004, a Riserva that conveys a clear message: some wines do not need to be rushed, but understood.
Some wines are created to express the character of a particular vintage. Others need to travel through time before they can truly reveal it. Lucrezia Etichetta Nera 2004 belongs firmly to the latter category.
The evening organised by Castello Bonomi brought together several elements: the wine itself, naturally, but also the passage of time, the symbolism of the stars, the flavours of the sea and, above all, the idea of trust. Trust in the vintage, in the work carried out in the vineyard and cellar, and in the ability of a Franciacorta to continue evolving without being forced to follow the pace of the market.
“Tonight, we wanted to present one of the estate’s most important wines,” explains Roberto Paladin. “Lucrezia in all its different expressions, but above all Lucrezia Etichetta Nera 2004, with twenty years on the lees. For us, this is an important milestone: to have a timeless Franciacorta and allow it to age, age and age some more.”
The story of this bottle begins with the 2004 vintage. After more than 60 months on the lees, in 2010 the Paladin family and Luigi Bersini, Castello Bonomi’s chef de cave, decided not to stop there, extending the ageing period for a small selection of bottles. What began almost as an experiment to assess the vintage’s ageing potential has continued until 2026, reaching more than 240 months on the lees.
It was by no means an obvious decision.
“We stopped at twenty years partly because it was a nice round number, of course, but above all because the wine was still at its absolute best,” Roberto explains. “And this evening is really about time. But also about trust. You have to trust your own work, believe in what you do and have the courage to take risks.”
Today, just 250 bottles remain from that original selection. Lucrezia Etichetta Nera 2004 is made entirely from Pinot Noir, sourced from the estate’s oldest vineyards, where vines more than forty years old grow on the terraces of Monte Orfano, at an altitude of approximately 250 metres. This Riserva is produced exclusively in exceptional vintages, when the ripeness, balance and ageing potential of the grapes suggest that the wine can follow a longer evolutionary path than usual.
And this is where time becomes something more meaningful than mere duration. “We chose to put time at the heart of everything. The Lucrezia Riservas were born from the desire to allow great vintages to express their full potential, without imposing a release date dictated by the market.”
The stars also played a role in the evening’s narrative, not simply as a decorative theme but as a metaphor for guidance and a sense of identity. “Throughout history, people have looked to the stars as points of reference,” Roberto explains. “For us, the vineyard where Lucrezia originates, Villino and the Terraces represent exactly that: something constant. The soil remains the same, the sky remains the same. New labels may continue to emerge, but Lucrezia remains something unique.”
The symbolism is deliberate. The very identity of this Riserva is built around the idea of a star that endures through time: a distinctive vintage, a specific vineyard and a consistent winemaking philosophy. Food pairings were another important element of the evening, with Gianfranco Pascucci invited to create a dialogue between Lucrezia and the sea.
“We wanted to be daring there, too. Pairing the wines with the dishes was an integral part of the presentation. Time, trust and the courage to take risks are the principles that give us confidence as we face future challenges.”
And perhaps this is the most interesting aspect of the entire experience: not simply celebrating the longevity of a bottle, but using that longevity to demonstrate a vision.
Because Lucrezia is not produced every year.
The different expressions of the Riserva are made only when vintage conditions allow. Etichetta Nera is 100% Pinot Noir; Etichetta Bianca is a blend of 80% Chardonnay and 20% Pinot Noir; while the Rosé is also made exclusively from Pinot Noir. On average, these wines spend around ten years ageing, although some reach fifteen years or more.
The next chapter is already taking shape. “Between 2025, 2026 and 2027, we will have all three Lucrezia wines from different vintages,” Roberto Paladin reveals. “Etichetta Bianca 2011, Etichetta Nera 2020, and at Vinitaly we will present Lucrezia Rosé 2016. The vintages are different because it is the harvest that makes the decision. Only the finest vintages become Lucrezia.”
And perhaps that is the most authentic message of the evening.
Twenty years not as an exercise in style, nor an extended period on the lees used as a marketing argument, but as a genuine commitment to discovering just how far a wine can evolve when the quality of the grapes makes it possible.
Time, in this case, is not a number.
It is a winemaking decision. And above all, an expression of trust.
