Sardinia, beyond the sea: a journey through terroirs, grape varieties and traditions
Great success for the two masterclasses organized during the event “La Sardegna di Vinodabere 2024”, which allowed participants to embark on a journey through some of the most fascinating territories of Sardinia (Oliena, Ogliastra, Orgosolo and Romangia).
Both masterclasses were led by food and wine critic Dario Cappelloni, contributor to DoctorWine, together with Maurizio Valeriani.
It was an opportunity to “bring Sardinia closer” to the mainland and to engage with local producers who increasingly aim to highlight the differences in terroir, grape varieties and traditions of the island. During both masterclasses, images of the territory were projected, inviting participants to discover places that are often almost unimaginable: Sardinia is not only about the sea.
The first masterclass “The Nepente di Oliena and its interpretations”
The meeting was dedicated to Nepente di Oliena, a subzone of the Cannonau di Sardegna DOC denomination (established in 1972). We are in the eastern part of Sardinia, in Oliena in the province of Nuoro, one of the most important wine areas of the region. The wines of this subzone are made from pure Cannonau grapes, or with a maximum of 10% of grapes from other recommended or authorized red grape varieties in the Sardinian region.
Seven wineries were presented, with seven Cannonau wines tasted, and the first thing that emerged was the desire of the winegrowers to join forces to promote the territory and highlight the characteristics of each individual product, even though they are cultivated just a short distance from one another. Going into detail for every wine would be too long, but it is immediately clear that it is reductive to say we tasted “the” Cannonau — it is more correct to say “the Cannonau wines”, given the uniqueness of each one.
In all the wineries it is evident that something is changing. The generational shift is pushing producers to look beyond the island and to show how these wines are “contemporary”, in step with the times, increasingly refined and easy to drink, yet still strongly rooted in their territory.
Wineries and wines tasted
- Iolei – Cannonau di Sardegna Nepente di Oliena Vosté 2022
- Salis – Cannonau di Sardegna Nepente di Oliena Galu 2022
- Biscu – Cannonau di Sardegna Nepente di Oliena ZioBi 2020
- Gostolai – Cannonau di Sardegna Nepente di Oliena Riserva Sos Usos 2020
- Guthiddai – Cannonau di Sardegna Nepente di Oliena Mannoi 2021
- Ruju Sardu – Cannonau di Sardegna Nepente di Oliena Pupusu 2020
- Vignaioli di Oliena – Cannonau di Sardegna Nepente di Oliena S’Incontru 2019
The second masterclass “Ogliastra, Orgosolo and Romangia, territories compared”
In this second masterclass as well, Cannonau takes center stage. The three territories present deep differences but are united by wines of great quality and typicity. Ogliastra (on the eastern side of Sardinia) with its Jerzu subzone, Orgosolo (world famous for its murals) with its mountain viticulture, and Romangia (north-western Sardinia) with the territories of Sorso and Sennori and its extraordinary Moscato, Vermentino, Cannonau and Cagnulari.
Eight wineries were presented and 13 wines were tasted, including eight Cannonau wines that represent a wide range of expressions of Cannonau di Sardegna, reflecting the diversity of the territory, winemaking practices and production philosophies present in the region. The two Moscato di Sorso Sennori wines and the Passito represent the oenological excellence of Romangia, highlighting the versatility of the Moscato grape and the producers’ ability to create wines ranging from fresh and fruity versions to more concentrated and sweet ones (Passito).
Wineries (area) and wines tasted
- Cantina Fara (Romangia) – Vermentino di Sardegna Jolzi 2022
- Viticoltori della Romangia – Cagnulari Pietra 2022
- Viticoltori della Romangia – Cannonau di Sardegna Radice 2022
- Fattorie Isola (Romangia) – Cannonau di Sardegna 2022 (organic)
- Cantine di Orgosolo – Cannonau di Sardegna Luna Vona 2022 (organic)
- Vini TraMonti (Romangia) – Cannonau di Sardegna 2021
- Cantine di Orgosolo – Cannonau di Sardegna Classico Soroi 2020
- Tenute Perda Rubia (Ogliastra) – Cannonau di Sardegna Perda Rubia 2019
- Nuraghe Crabioni (Romangia) – Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva 2019
- Alberto Loi (Ogliastra) – Cannonau di Sardegna Jerzu Riserva Alberto Loi 2019
- Nuraghe Crabioni (Romangia) – Moscato di Sorso Sennori 2022
- Cantina Fara (Romangia) – Moscato di Sorso Sennori Oro Passito 2021
- Vini TraMonti (Romangia) – Passito 2022
Overall, the events highlighted not only the potential and variety of Sardinian wines, but also the desire of winegrowers to share the richness and diversity of their land, opening new perspectives for the region’s wine production.
