A vertical tasting in the park…
No, this is not an article about physical exercise. And certainly not about doing handstands—especially since my 1.85 meters make it rather difficult for me to stand on my head. For us wine-addicted people, however, the word “vertical” means something entirely different.
A vertical tasting means trying the same wine across different vintages.
And the park? As you may have noticed from the “shared tastings” we organized during lockdown (did you see them?), I love sharing. I believe that wine, when enjoyed in company, takes on a completely different value. Of course, there are wines—Sauternes, Marsala, great passiti, at least for me—that can accompany a pleasant and solitary nirvana… but can anything really compare to a great wine shared with friends?
I had a vertical of Verdicchio di Matelica from Collestefano sitting in a box.
Should I try it alone? That would be rather sad. So I call Andrea, who has a park right below his house. Even though it’s a public park, he manages it as if it were his own garden.
And that’s when the idea strikes: a Verdicchio vertical tasting in a public park.
A mix of sommeliers and friends. Technical judgments alternating with more “popular” opinions. Maybe while nibbling on a bit of cheese and a crostino. The proposal goes out: everyone should bring a small bite suitable for the occasion.
But what a hassle… retrieving the portable cooler from my mother’s cellar, filling it with ice, carrying the glasses, explaining to everyone how to get there… Is it really worth it? Yes, it is. The enthusiasm of the participants alone is enough to repay the effort.
A blind vertical tasting would be difficult, but I like the element of surprise, so I initially say nothing about what we will drink. Later I reveal the grape variety, the winery, and the vintages.
We taste the six vintages, evaluate them, and then taste them again paired with the snacks on the table. We are in the Marche region, in the Valle Camertina.
Castelraimondo lies in a valley—the only one in the region without a view of the sea—and at 450 meters above sea level it enjoys a temperate climate.
It is here that Fabio Marchionni, the family winemaker, bottled his first Verdicchio in 1998.
We are talking about Collestefano, a winery organic since 1995, committed to healthy viticulture and to an equally sound work ethic.
But now, let’s get to the point.
On the table: six bottles from six vintages.
And we begin with the youngest.
Vintage 2019
The Verdicchio I expected: fresh and vibrant, with citrus notes accompanying a very pleasant sip.
Savory, with a more than satisfying finish for such a young wine—so much so that it immediately made us want to reach for the cheeses on the table.
Vintage 2018
The positive effects of a year in the bottle are already noticeable.
Decidedly elegant, a bit more restrained in intensity but very enjoyable, also thanks to a lightly bitter finish.
Paired with the Piedmontese toma we had on the table, it performed beautifully.
Vintage 2017
It paired well with a Tuscan pecorino we had available. Good, although among the lineup this 2017 turned out to be the least lively. A wine that stays on track but seems slightly more fatigued than the others. We agreed to try another bottle soon.
Vintage 2016
Great balance. Fresh, but with an interesting profile that leans toward a more austere style.
Even more interesting after gaining a few degrees of temperature.
Some spicy notes emerge, along with a pleasant finish—where I personally sensed a hint of dried fruit, perhaps a touch of almond.
Vintage 2015
My favorite. Freshness is joined by a vegetal note where I detect chamomile and a refinement I didn’t expect.
A delicate entry on the palate. Federico finds pear, while I simply enjoy its elegance, freshness, and savoriness. The finish isn’t very long, but the wine’s presence is truly outstanding.
Vintage 2014
Six years that clearly show how much Verdicchio di Matelica can give over time.
Still remarkably fresh, with an opening nose that gives no hint of age, capturing you with its citrus notes and strong character. The profile is so assertive that we decide to raise the stakes, pairing it with a Corsican “Fleur de Maquis”—a blue goat cheese with thyme rind. Never was a bold move rewarded with such a perfect pairing. The palate becomes flawless, and the desire to drink, eat, and repeat continues until the bottle is empty.
What can I say?
A Verdicchio di Matelica from Collestefano that certainly does not leave you indifferent.
And this despite the fact that—even in a rustic park tasting—the percentage of demanding and slightly spoiled sommeliers at the table was quite high 🙂
A vertical tasting that makes you want to remain horizontal—leaning over the table with glasses always ready to be filled.
These “tastings in the park” are a beautiful idea.
And you can be sure we’ll do it again.
