For those of my generation, Pontedera inevitably rhymes with Piaggio. Or rather — if we want to be precise — it rhymes with Vespa. Coming to Pontedera for me was a bit like reliving those teenage years when the ultimate dream was first the vespino, and later the more ambitious Vespa 125.
But we grow up, and eventually we move on from engines to other passions.
After a pleasant drive of a few hours in good company, we arrive. A gate separates us from what promises to be one of those estates that leave a lasting impression. We are at Varramista, in Montopoli Val d’Arno, an estate with many stories to tell — and we are ready to capture every single one of them.
The welcome from Francesca Frediani, Varramista’s commercial director for about twenty years, is the kind that instantly makes you feel at home. The estate itself, however, is the kind that inevitably leaves your jaw dropping in the face of so much beauty.
The property covers 390 hectares, of which 200 are woodland and 8 are vineyards. We are surrounded by the green of meadows, pastures and vines — and much more. At the center stands the Villa, a building dating back to 1598, purchased in the 1950s by the Piaggio family. Yet it was the vision of Giovanni Alberto Agnelli, in the early 1990s, that “designed” — forgive the slightly improper term — what Varramista represents today.
Whoever you speak to here tells the same story: that of “Giovannino”, who loved going out, living the territory and sharing his passions — among which Syrah held a special place. A presence so strong that its absence is still felt. A presence that you can still sense even after spending only a couple of days at the estate.
Yes, it’s true — I am captivated by the greenery and the setting, and my words inevitably drift toward those sensations. But we are here to explore the productive reality of these fascinating Terre di Pisa, which Claudia Marinelli continues to introduce to us.
On the program: a vertical tasting of fifteen vintages, which eventually became seventeen, of Varramista IGT Rosso.
The greenery, the welcome and the atmosphere make you feel completely at ease. I feel slightly less “at home” when I step into the hall where the tasting will take place. Sumptuous, I would say. Knowing that the villa is opened only on rare occasions — and that this vertical tasting is one of those rare moments — might suggest an extremely formal event… but that is not the case. Instead, I experience it in a relaxed and engaging way, eager to discover everything that is being poured into my glass.
Seventeen vintages — and the pleasant surprise of finding Federico Staderini, whom I had already met and appreciated, guiding the tasting. A very promising start.
In addition to the five hectares of vineyards in Capalbio, here in Montopoli Val d’Arno the estate grows Syrah, Sangiovese and Merlot, with an average annual production ranging between 35,000 and 45,000 bottles, depending on the vintage.
Varramista IGT Rosso, initially conceived as a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot, has been produced as 100% Syrah since 2003. “Handwork and patience” are the guiding principles that allow this wine to evolve — as Federico explains — from “gruff” to elegant.
At Wining.it we love stories, and Federico’s story can be found below.
It was fascinating to be guided through this journey, starting from the bold bet on Syrah in the Terre di Pisa, and then moving through the various turning points that have progressively shaped Varramista IGT Rosso. A continuous evolution, supported by technical expertise but also by a deep love for this land and this estate.
It is not my habit to dwell on tasting notes for everything that has passed through my glass. Others do that better than I do, and as usual I prefer to tell the story of the emotions.
I leave Varramista with a feeling that oscillates between comfort and the sensation of having spent two days with people I had known for years. Two days in an extraordinary place, made completely accessible by the energy and hospitality of Claudia Marinelli and — without taking anything away from Michela Bulleri, the estate’s general manager, or the winemakers Luca Collecchi and Daniele Galli (Capalbio) — by Francesca Frediani, who in my opinion is the true driving force behind this winery, and to whom I gladly leave the floor.
P.S. Watch out — next time I want to come here by Vespa!
