When we think of a wine region, our minds often turn immediately to the wine that best embodies its spirit. It is the reflection of an identity shaped over time, the result of a silent dialogue between people and nature. What is far less common is for the name of a wine or a territory to instantly evoke the name of a producer. When that happens, it means someone has become a truly credible interpreter of their land, a storyteller capable of giving voice to a place and its history.This is precisely what has happened with Cesanese and Damiano Ciolli.
I had the opportunity to meet him in Rome on May 24 during a tasting organized by Terraviva. Among the many faces of Italian wine, his stands out for the quiet confidence of someone who does not need to raise his voice to be heard. Perhaps it is this same sense of balance that emerges in his wines: no pursuit of effect, no chasing trends, but a clear determination to tell the story of Cesanese through its most authentic expression.
To truly understand Damiano’s work, one must travel to Olevano Romano, a beautiful medieval village perched at the foot of Monte Celeste, southeast of Rome. Here, the landscape moves to a different rhythm. Hills roll across forests and vineyards, elevations range between 300 and 450 meters, and the volcanic soils display an intense red hue, as if preserving the warmth of the sun itself.
Every morning, a breeze from the Tyrrhenian Sea sweeps across the vineyards, drying the humidity and accompanying the slow ripening of Cesanese di Affile, the historic grape variety of these lands. It is a deeply territorial grape, inseparable from its place of origin, capable of producing wines with unmistakable personality when entrusted to hands willing to listen.
Damiano Ciolli’s story begins with that very act of listening.
When he took over the family estate in 2001, he inherited a business built by his grandfather Guido and his father Costantino, who for many years produced wine mainly destined for bulk sales in nearby Rome. Damiano, however, looked beyond tradition. He was convinced that Cesanese could aspire to more—that it could express elegance, depth, and a sense of place with the same dignity as Italy’s most celebrated grape varieties.
Over the years, that conviction became a project.
At his side is Letizia Rocchi, his life partner and professional collaborator, a graduate in vine physiology and oenology. Together they share an agricultural vision based on environmental respect and the pursuit of balance. Green manure crops are used in the vineyards, alongside organic and biodynamic practices aimed at preserving the natural fertility of the soil. In the cellar, fermentations occur spontaneously, without invasive intervention, allowing the wines to find their own voice.
The goal is not to create perfect wines, but truthful ones.This philosophy is clearly reflected in Silene, the Cesanese that serves as the gateway to Damiano Ciolli’s world.
The wine takes its name from Silene vulgaris, a small wildflower that dots the local countryside with its distinctive inflated calyxes. It is a tribute to the simple and authentic nature surrounding the vineyards from which the grapes are sourced. In the glass, Silene never raises its voice. It arrives quietly, bringing aromas of ripe cherries, freshly picked red berries, and the wild herbs that grow naturally between the vineyard rows. It is not a wine that occupies space—it fills it.
On the palate, it is vibrant and energetic, driven by a freshness that accompanies the fruit without ever overwhelming it. The tannins gently caress the palate with precision, weaving a delicate texture that extends the finish and immediately invites another sip.
It becomes easy to understand why Damiano Ciolli has become one of the leading references for contemporary Cesanese.
His wines do not seek to impress at first sip. Instead, they reveal themselves gradually, allowing nuances, details, and depth to emerge over time. They speak the language of the place from which they come and, precisely because of that authenticity, they achieve a universal appeal.
At a time when so much attention is given to what is instantly recognizable, Damiano Ciolli’s work represents a return to essentials: listening to the land, respecting its rhythms, and transforming each harvest into a story.
A story that bears the name Cesanese and that today, more than ever, has the face of Damiano Ciolli.
