At Tenuta Eméra, you have to go at sunset. An intense, romantic sunset over the Ionian Sea, best enjoyed from the estate’s lawn—which isn’t really a lawn at all, but the “roof” of the winery…
But let’s take it step by step. We are at one of the estates of Claudio Quarta Vignaiolo, in Lizzano, along the Ionian coast of Puglia. Welcoming us is Alessandra Quarta, with her usual enthusiasm and radiant energy.
Just enough time to pick a couple of clusters of fragolina grapes from the pergola in the courtyard, and we jump into the car to head to the vineyards. We could listen to Alessandra and her father Claudio for hours. Claudio began his career as a geneticist, founding the first Italian biotech company to be listed on the stock exchange. Alessandra, on the other hand, grew up between Spain and the U.S., graduating from Bocconi.
But the call of their land was clearly too strong. And perhaps it is precisely because of these backgrounds that, walking through Claudio Quarta’s vineyards, you sense two powerful forces: a vocation for research and a deep passion.
At Tenuta Eméra, a project is underway in collaboration with the Faculty of Agriculture of the University of Milan, based on a biodiversity collection of vines—considered the largest in the world for Mediterranean varieties, with around 500 rare grape types. From these, micro-vinifications are carried out by university interns. There is also a research project focused on studying new rootstocks…
But what strikes me most is the passion. A passion that, in Alessandra’s stories, seems to originate from Casino Nitti-Quarta—a beautiful masseria immersed in their vineyards. A place that invites you to embrace silence, the view, and the gentle breeze that accompanied us throughout the visit.
The landscape is breathtaking—we hardly know where to look. We walk past the vats used for foot-crushing grapes during the “Lu Capucanali” festival, an event we unfortunately couldn’t experience this year due to the pandemic.
Back to the winery. Harvest is approaching, and you can feel the engines warming up. We descend beneath that grassy “roof” where we admired the sunset, down to the barrel room. The chalkboard walls—where you can write with your own piece of chalk—are a brilliant touch. And the background music, softly accompanying the wine, is simply enchanting…
Back above ground, it’s time for dinner. I’ve brought along my holiday group—eleven people in total. In the kitchen are the “ladies of the estate,” and you can taste it. A sequence of vegetable-based dishes prepared with the flavors and craftsmanship of another time.
I’ll admit—it’s hard, in such a setting, to keep the focus (also) on the wine. Still, we pace ourselves, knowing we have a drive ahead. In our glasses, we try a couple of wines to accompany the dishes. I choose to stay “in-house” with an Anima di Chardonnay—fresh and fragrant, exactly as you’d expect—and Qu.Ale, Alessandra’s project wine, through which she introduces her idea of Wine Democracy (we’ll talk more about it soon). A red based on Negroamaro and other native grapes, served chilled—and incredibly enjoyable.
And I confess: drinking Qu.Ale felt like tasting not only the wine, but also Alessandra’s idea.
Then comes a surprise at the table: Oro di Emèra 2017, a Primitivo di Manduria DOC that instantly wins us over with its softness, juiciness, elegance, and character. A perfect way to close the evening.
Alessandra—when it comes to hospitality… chapeau. From the fragolina grapes to the dinner prepared by the ladies.
We leave with our eyes filled with vineyards, sunsets, and enchanting places.
And with ideas—those, it seems, you certainly don’t lack.
What can we expect next time?
(Because you do know there will be a next time…)
