Saint-Émilion, in the underground Rome, where you don’t expect it

That the Romans were indulgent, there’s no doubt. But I truly didn’t expect them to take it to this level.

It’s a Saturday afternoon, and we’re invited on a guided tour in the heart of Rome, just behind the Trevi Fountain. The tour is of the Vicus Caprarius, a small museum (I think that’s a fitting description) located directly beneath Harry’s Bar on Via dei Crociferi. And when I say “beneath,” I mean truly beneath, as the museum is accessed via an internal staircase inside the bar.

Rome is my city, and I doubt I’ll ever manage to see it all. Each time I discover something new, I’m filled with the same sense of wonder and surprise. This was one of those occasions.

We’re greeted by Lorenzo Dell’Aquila, the director of this small gem, which has been restored by its owners and made accessible to visitors (for a remarkably modest ticket price). We descend the stairs, and before us opens a breathtaking scene. We find ourselves in one of the stations of the Aqua Virgo aqueduct, the system that supplies water to many of the city’s iconic fountains. A masterpiece of engineering, I’d say—a visit not to be missed. However, since we’re on Wining.it, I feel compelled to focus on wine.

At the center of this archaeological site is a well. Over time, the well fell out of use and became a dumping ground. Among the various artifacts unearthed here, they found a bottle, still sealed. I encourage you to watch the video and see for yourself—proof that, evidently, even in ancient times, people knew how to drink well…

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Picture of Maurizio Gabriele

Maurizio Gabriele

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