To have dinner at Lele Usai’s, in Fiumicino, you have to be ready to be surprised. Lele’s cuisine is not something you can respond to with indifference—especially when dishes like his “iodized garden” arrive at the table, as beautiful to look at as they are ready to explode on the palate.
But you also need to be open to bold and unusual choices: the use of tracina (a fish I’ve always feared for its irritating spines…), unexpected pairings like ray and pepper, or simply a confident yet balanced use of strong flavors such as garlic, sea urchin, or bottarga.
Lele has a dual soul. On one side, the gourmet approach of Il Tino; on the other, a more “pop,” as he defines it, and traditional style at Bistrot 4112, located on the ground floor. Two expressions of a cuisine deeply connected to its territory and to a sea that Lele has come to know intimately—working with high-quality ingredients and fish varieties that are often overlooked.
A sea that deserves respect and attention. The same respect Lele shows through his commitment to environmental sustainability, keeping alive a deep connection with what is, ultimately, his greatest passion.
