The “Tuscany in Purity” of Podere Pellicciano

The story of Podere Pellicciano is a family one.
Mamma Concetta, energetic and ever-present; Fabio, the company’s sales manager; and Federico, the winemaker. You can immediately tell it’s a family story from the atmosphere of hospitality that surrounds you. It takes only a moment to feel at home, just as the passion Fabio and Federico convey when recounting their history and their wines is instantly tangible.

We are in the area of San Miniato. One vineyard surrounds the house, and another lies higher up in Bucciano. In recent times, the estate has managed to “rebuild” the entire property, thus reclaiming its identity as “Podere Pellicciano.”

Tufa soils with clay beneath. A sometimes challenging terrain that inevitably influences production. Yet Federico approaches it with great care and passion. If anything, he is not very “4.0,” but he maintains a constant relationship with his land and vines, with a kind of “quick reflexes” that lead him to make very precise choices.

It’s not always possible, in fact, to produce Colorino in purity (Buccianello Toscana IGT). Nor the local Malvasia Nera (Egola Toscana IGT), a grape variety that—according to Federico—is particularly difficult to manage.

To me, Podere Pellicciano has two converging identities. On the one hand, the desire to “follow” the territory by enhancing native grape varieties (…and in purity). On the other, the youthful instinct of Fabio and Federico, which pleasantly nudges them toward a Vermentino (Biondo Toscana IGT) and a delightful re-fermented Rosato (In Fermento, from Sangiovese grapes).

I therefore feel that Podere Pellicciano is precisely the expression of who they are: of their territory, their age, and not least, their character. It is no coincidence that Biondo, Tricche, and Cimba are three wines—but also the nicknames of Fabio, Federico, and Martina, their sister.

And then there is the hospitality. A smart way of welcoming guests, because it isn’t focused solely on the winery itself. I believe that the wines of Podere Pellicciano, as already mentioned, have a dual soul: on the one hand, an immediate one with the Vermentino and the re-fermented Rosato; on the other, one that is more “reflective,” or gastronomic in my view, thanks to their blends and the pure native varieties. This is why I found it clever to begin the visit with a truffle hunt with Azienda Nacci, and then work on pairings with the menus of Andrea Madonia from “Brassica” first, and Armando Brigai from “Olivum” later. A very interesting way to promote a territory that is always capable of offering pleasant surprises.

Over two days, in addition to the monovarietals, we also had the chance to taste their Trebbiano (Fonte Vivo Toscana IGT), Chianti, and the Cru Prato della Rocca Toscana IGT. We tried them across multiple vintages, at times with very different expressions (for example, the Trebbiano). The wines of Podere Pellicciano offer a truly strong identity. A working group—pardon, a family—capable of presenting themselves and their territory in the best possible way.

I would also like to express my appreciation for Claudia Marinelli Darwine & Food Comunicazione for her ability to organize consistently interesting “experiences” in this part of Italy, which is a bit out of the way for those of us coming from Rome compared to other traditional Tuscan destinations, yet at the end of every weekend makes you say, “well, it was definitely worth it…”

In the video that follows, I interviewed Fabio and Federico, and I think the “character” I mentioned is very easy to perceive, even though my camera had suddenly switched to FPV mode and at times the footage may appear a bit “seismic” 😊

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Picture of Maurizio Gabriele

Maurizio Gabriele

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