I could say it was by chance, but when I found myself having to choose a place for dinner in Tirana, my eye instinctively fell on “Shandevere”, especially when I noticed the sign reading “Çobo Winery.”
For some time now I have been interested in Albanian producers and wines, and this seemed like the perfect opportunity to begin exploring them ahead of the tour I plan to start next spring. But would I only find the wines, or would it be a chance for a more meaningful experience?
The place is very beautiful. It is hard not to be attracted by its outdoor terrace and above all—at least for me—by a gastronomic offer that is finally local and not Apulian, as often happens here in Albania (no offense to my Apulian friends…). Everyone liked the choice, but I particularly appreciated it because the first person I happened to meet—of all people—was Muharrem Çobo.
Apparently gruff, but only at first glance. Just like us: apparently tourists, but in reality not tourists at all, and deeply interested both in the gastronomic offer (all of us) and in the wines (Federico and I in particular).
Muharrem is a presence you immediately feel. He is the host, and as such he conveys that sense of trust that allows us to simply say: “You choose.”
The relationship between customer and restaurateur/producer quickly and pleasantly turned into something more familiar and warm, with an exchange of reflections and impressions, stories of professional and personal life… in short, exactly the kind of experience I enjoy. And of course, when good food is accompanied by equally good wine, the evening becomes decidedly enjoyable.
Muharrem immediately made two things clear: for him wine is meant to be drunk—expressing some skepticism toward the kind of analytical tasting we often practice—and he has immense respect for the indigenous grape varieties of Berat, his homeland, where the communist regime had prevented wine production for many years, until it resumed in the early 1990s.
We began with two expressions of the Puls grape variety: the Shandevere sparkling wine, marked by great freshness and salinity, followed by E Bardha e Beratit, literally “White of Berat,” fresh and full of character, with a rich, satisfying palate also well suited to substantial dishes.
Then we moved on to Shesh i Zi Riserva 2015, a wine we paired with several dishes and that constantly invited another sip. Pleasant, deep, smooth, never aggressive, characterized by notes of dark fruit and a beautiful length.
We concluded with E Kuqja e Beratit – Vlosh 2019, another excellent wine, full and gratifying on the palate, combining character and elegance at the same time.
We also tried a passito, served en passant, during a moment of pure bliss. It was such a different and enjoyable passito that we simply savored it, forgetting to take any notes…
(This is the official version. In reality, it was simply the perfect excuse to come back.)
“Shandevere,” an Albanian word meaning “joyful,” perfectly matched our state of mind as we left Muharrem’s restaurant. We ended up here by chance, but we will return—both here, to try the rest of his intriguing traditional dishes, and to Berat, to visit his winery.
